In Armenia, it is customary to go to the ancient architecture to go to monasteries lost among the mountains. But there is an entire city that has retained its pre -revolutionary appearance and capable of surprising tourists with color and identity. Gyumri is the second largest settlement of the Transcaucasian country, the city of artisans and humor. Here you can take a walk along the narrow streets, a paving stones, evaluate houses made of black tufa, admire the view of the aragats and try Kella – a dish that is prepared only here.
Entrance rules
Now in Armenia there are no Covid restrictions. Russians can enter the country without a visa, a foreign or internal passport will be required. The maximum stay is 180 days.
How to get
There are direct flights from Moscow to Gyumri, the cost of tickets starts at 7,800 rubles*.
You can also fly to Yerevan, and go by train by Gyumri. The fare in the usual train is 275 rubles*, the trip will take about three hours with all the stops. Expresses also go to the city, travel time for two hours, cost 530 rubles*. A conventional taxi will cost a tourist an average of 3,800 rubles*.
The most convenient way to get from Yerevan to Gyumri is to book a car. On the way you will spend almost two hours.
Where to stop
Hask (score 9.1). The cost of one night for two – 2 600 rubles*
Olympic Hotel (rating 8.9). The cost of one night for two – 3 900 rubles*
Villa Kars (rating 9). The cost of one night for two – 8 600 rubles*
What to see
Airport and station
Gyumri’s study can be started with the airport and the station. These wonderful monuments of modernism went to the city in the inheritance from the Soviet era.
If you liked the old terminal of the Yerevan Zvartnitsa, then the unusual forms and interiors of the Leninakan Airport – the city was called in the Soviet period – will also be pleased. The building is small, so for the inspection will take a few minutes.
The same can be said about the station, but it is advisable to linger here in order to study interesting bas-reliefs and the history of the South Caucasian Railway. The clock with the clock and the main hall deserve separate attention.
Square Vardananz
Acquaintance with most cities is better to start with the main square, Gyumri is no exception. Two temples are located here – the Church of Christ the Almighter and the Church of the Holy Virgin. The first was destroyed during the 1988 earthquake, restored in 2014, and recently ended work on its interiors. Nearby is a monument to the victims of those tragic events. The second temple survived the earthquake. Now many city events are being held there.
Since Gyumri is historically considered the capital of the Armenian humor, you can find a wall of jokes on the main square of the city. And also a monument to Vardan Mamikonyan and his associate – the commander, who defended the Christian faith in Armenia during the war with the Persians. The city hall and the beautiful building of the cinema October are also located here.
Old quarters of the city
The historical center in Gyumri has been preserved better than in Yerevan. And if the pink and orange tuff in the capital has become familiar, then this city can surprise with its Gothic gloom and severity. In Yerevan, buildings from black tuff are not found so often, in Gyumri there are much more. And his combination with a red tuf will leave few indifferent. The city center was mainly built up in the second half of the XIX century. There are many architectural styles, from classicism to ar-nuvo. The most beautiful buildings are located on the streets of Ryzhkov, Shiraz, Rustaveli, Jivani and Warpetz. Many of them were repaired and paved with paving stones a few years ago, and now they look neat and comfortable. It is worth looking into the lanes, there you can also see architectural masterpieces in colorful courtyards.
Black fortress
The fate of the Alexanderpol – this was the name of Gyumri as part of the Russian Empire – is closely connected with a large fortress built at the beginning of the 19th century to protect against the Ottoman Empire. It is located on a high hill west of the city, and its main part is not available to visit. But for tourists, the southern tower of the fort is opened, it is customary to call it a black fortress. The building, also built from the dark tuf, almost completely retained its historical appearance, except that a stylish concert platform appeared inside. Beautiful views of the city and the two -headed peak of Aragatz are opened from the hill. It is easiest to get to this place by taxi, but if you wanted to take a walk, then on foot from the center of the city to the fortress you will reach 20 minutes.
Mother of Armenia
Gyumri has its own similar monument, and it also rises above the city as the mother of Armenia in Yerevan. Only here he looks more feminine and peaceful. However, according to the local legend, the back of the structure addressed to Turkey resembles a terrible dragon. So or not, you can see for yourself. Initially, it was this monument that was supposed to erect in Yerevan, but the country’s leadership considered that the monument with a more warlike look is more suitable for the capital. The Gyumrian mother of Armenia is located next to the black fortress, so visiting two attractions is easy to combine. It is also worth walking along the Victory Avenue leading from the base of the hill to the monument.
Iron Fountain
The 1988 earthquake is a tragedy, the traces of which are still found throughout the city. The northern regions of Gyumri, built already in Soviet times, suffered most. In one of them in 1982, an iron fountain was installed – another example of Soviet modernism. Its author, architect Arthur Tarkhanyan, is better known thanks to his other buildings: Tsitermanakababerd Memorial and Zvartnots Airport in Yerevan. The fountain has regularly functioned for six years, but after the earthquake around it there were ruins and desolation. Only the construction survived. Tourists compare its unusual forms with a flying saucer, and the city authorities talk about plans to restore this territory. In the meantime, the destructive scale of the tragedy is well felt here, and the fountain is perceived as a symbol of the persistence of the city and its inhabitants.
Museum of National Architecture and Life
The presence of such a museum is no coincidence in Gyumri: after all, this city demonstrates the achievements of Armenian architecture better, and residents support some traditions of the pre -Soviet period. The museum is located in the former merchant mansion of the Dzitokhtsyan family – a beautiful building from black and red tuf. It was built in the 19th century, and one of the main merits of the owners of the institution is the preservation of authentic interiors. The exhibition in chronological order and in an accessible form tells about the history of the city, about the emergence and development of many crafts in it, about the emergence of numerous mansions and churches, about national costumes and household items. The input ticket costs 1000 drams (approximately 212 rubles).
Opening hours: Tuesday – Saturday from 11:00 to 17:00, Sunday from 11:00 to 16:00
Gallery of sisters Aslanmazyan
Mariam and Erani Aslamazyan are Armenian artists who became famous in the Soviet Union and far beyond its borders thanks to their talent and struggle for gender equality in art. Sisters were often sent to international exhibitions to represent the USSR. Their work is inspired by people and images from different parts of the world, while they retained the best national traditions in painting. In 1987, artists founded a gallery in their native Gyumri and transferred more than 600 original works to it. It is located in an old building, which also deserves attention. The cost of the entrance is 212 rubles.
Opening hours: Tuesday – Thursday from 10:30 to 17:00, Friday – Sunday from 10:30 to 20:00
Where to eat
Basturma Shop & Grill Bar. A small restaurant with hearty meat dishes and an excellent interior. Here you can taste delicious burgers and sandwiches.
Herbs & Honey Tea-Shop Restaurant. There are many types of tea and the best desserts in the city. The choice of dishes is small, but everything is served very impressive. As a souvenir, we advise you to buy tea, herbs, honey and jam here.
Cherkezi Dzor. Restaurant in a gorge with your fish farming. There is a pleasant atmosphere, delicious dishes and good maintenance.
Ponchik-monchik. A large selection of dishes at affordable prices, there are good desserts. Of the pluses – the restaurant is located on the main square, and its visit can be included in the walking route around the city.
Ani Restaurant. In this institution, we recommend that you try Armenian dishes and what is prepared only in Gyumri – Kyalla. This is a baked bull head, everything goes into use: eyes, brain, tongue. If you are ready for bold culinary experiments, you are here.
*Prices are relevant at the time of publication.
