We continue to share inspirational routes for the summer with the Russian Explorers photographers. Pavel Matveev prepared a guide to the Kaliningrad region. And so that you use it as soon as possible, in our telegram channel we are playing a discount on flights to Kaliningrad, as well as living there.
Going for the weekend to the Kaliningrad region is a great idea. You will see this in a few minutes – immediately after reading my guide. I will talk about my favorite place in the region – the Curonian Spit. From the very childhood, I studied and photographed every square centimeter here. I will share small insiders, thanks to which your vacation will become as comfortable and pleasant as possible.
The cost of a flight from Moscow to Kaliningrad-from 5200 rubles* back and forth.
Curonian braid – This is a narrow strip of land, separating the Baltic Sea and the Curonian Bay and stretching from Zelenogradsk to Lithuanian Klaipeda.
My first advice – take the car for rent. So you can visit much more places and will not be attached to the schedule of public transport, which is not developed in the region very well. See for yourself: the length of the Russian part of the braid is 48 km. All this splendor is included in the UNESCO World Heritage List. And you have only a day or two. So the car is what you need.
A ticket to the National Park costs 300 rubles per person, for a car you will need to pay another 150 rubles.
For the first time, the Curonian braid is mentioned in 1258 as Nestland (German Nestland), which means “country of nests”. Due to its location, the park serves as a corridor for migrating birds. And directly during the days of migration (in the fall and spring), up to a million birds flies over the scythe daily. Most of them stop here to rest and feeding. Believe me, this is also worth seeing with your own eyes.
On the spit there is the oldest ornithological station in Europe, one of the first in the world. It was founded at the very beginning of the last century.
Let’s start our virtual journey. So, we will start from the most distant and popular point – Efa heights. Reaching 64 meters above sea level, it is the highest point of the nut dune.
Until the 18th century, the dun was surrounded by numerous trees, the roots of which restrained sand. The work on their landing was carried out for 100 years, the process was led by the expert in the dunes Franz EF, in whose honor this place is named. However, for unknown reasons, the trees were cut down, and the sand was erased from the face of the earth of 14 nearest villages.
The length of the route is 3 km, in a couple of hours all the way can be overcome with a leisurely step. It is difficult not to notice that souvenir shops will tell you where it begins. Several viewing platforms are equipped on the way. Already from the first, gorgeous views of the Kurshi Bay, Dunes and the Baltic Sea are opening. And with the latter, even Lithuania can be seen.
During a walk, you can’t go from equipped paths, since walking along the dunes itself destroys them. Although I remember exactly that about 15 years ago, my friends and I walked here without any obstacles. There was a feeling that you were in the middle of the desert. But now, of course, I follow all the rules. After all, this is a very small payment for the salvation of such incredible beauty. But the fine for violators is very tangible – about 4000 rubles.
I have been here more than one hundred times, but this place always causes a real delight. Desert landscapes and the sea, combined with an incredible atmosphere, the braids do something strange with me. I am like in space: all problems and unnecessary thoughts immediately leave me … The trip here gives a pleasant sense of inner purity.
After a walk, you can have lunch in a few cafes with a sea view. I advise you to pay special attention to fish dishes – the sea inhabitants are prepared here just a few hours after they catch … well, the buzz is! Be sure to try the sargana: this fish stands out with green bones against the background of white meat.
Go to the sea It is possible in almost any part of the braid, including on the dune nut. If you go not to the dunes, but in the opposite direction, then literally five minutes later you will find yourself on an incredible beach with white sand. Just look at these types!
But there is one big minus – there are almost always a lot of people. So you are unlikely to enjoy solitude. True, there is one place that not everyone knows about – I will definitely talk about him, but a little later.
In the meantime, I will take you to Dancing forest. It is literally 10 minutes from the height of Efa. The trees here wriggle, bifurcate and even bend with a ring – their trunks are curved, as if in a dance. How did it happen? There are versions for every taste, choose: the Germans tests of chemicals, magic (by the way, there are really many places on the spit resembling druid forests), natural and climatic conditions and caterpillar-widers.
True, you can also walk in the forest recently only on a special wooden flooring – previously tourists often tried to climb into trees. As a result, the territory was fenced, and pedestrian zones were equipped for tourists.
On me, as on a photographer, in this place, colors make a special impression. In soft light, especially in cloud or cloudy weather, the green carpet seems to be glowing! It feels like you are in a fabulous forest. A similar combination of colors I saw little! A braid is a really unique place.
The highest point of swamp dunes – Muller’s height. On the way to it, you can find a large number of stunted trees. And from a height of 45 meters, beautiful views of the waters of the Curonian Bay, Lake Seagull, pine forests and cozy houses of the village of Rybachy, open.
The height is named after the main forester of the Königsberg administration. Ludwig Wilhelm Müller was appointed to East Prussia in 1871 and served in Königsberg for 11 years. He also organized work on the restraint of sands and the fight against moving dunes, achieved state financing of forestry work.
A significant part of the terrain here is planted with a mountain pine. This tree, in natural conditions, grows in the Alps and on the Carpathians, played the main role in the battle with the sands of mobile dunes. The unpretentiousness of the mountain pine, along with the ability to fasten the sand with roots, made it an indispensable assistant.
Where to stop
There are not many housing options on the Curonian spit. There are practically no hotels – a protected area. Of course, you can rent an apartment from local residents, but I’m not sure that this is the most convenient option. It seems to me that there are two of the best places where you can stop at the Curonian Spit – a forest hotel and glamping located in the village.
In these completely different concepts, you can enjoy nature, admire the sea sunset and have a great time.
Well, now, as promised, I will share my most beloved point on the spit – First parking after checkpoint. Many drive this place, since it is located immediately at the entrance to the territory. Thanks to this, it is very calm here. Sometimes you can not meet anyone at all – the coast for several kilometers will be absolutely empty! And, perhaps, the main advice: always carry a raincoat with you. Even if weather forecasters promise a drought, and according to the forecasts of precipitation in the next 150 years, the rain can go at any moment.
I love the Curonian braid with all my heart … It’s hard to remember how much time I spent here, how many unrealized sunsets, dawn, how many stars were photographed … I’m not sure that even photographs can convey all the beauty of this place. But I am convinced that if you come here, and with your feet you will pass the route I described, you will certainly love this place in the same way as I am.
*Prices are valid at the time of publication
