Rostov-on-Don: South Color and Sholokhov Motives

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It is worth going to go to the places where the eggplant is called “blue”, and the apricots are “polers” in order to hear one of the most colorful adverbs of the Russian language. Here, according to the tradition, “Ghakak” and use a kulek, not a package. The concentration of dialectical delights in the south can be considered Rostov-on-Don-the largest city in this part of Russia. In it, the interweaving of cultures and architectural styles gave rise to an interesting mix. We will try it together with our author Maxim Dinislav, who will lead you in streets and yards of Rostov and tell you how best to feel the city on the sung Sholokhov river.

How to get

Now you can only reach Rostov-on-Don on the ground-the airport is closed for an indefinite period. But many trains are passing through the city, following both from Moscow and from the east of Russia.

The cost of railway tickets from the capital starts from 3,700 rubles, from St. Petersburg – from 5,000 rubles. A trip from Moscow by bus will cost at least 3,100 rubles.

You can also fly to Sochi or Mineral Waters, and already from these cities go to Rostov-on-Don. The cost depends on the route you have chosen.

Where to stop

  • O'Key Home (rating 9.6). The cost of one night for two is 2,650 rubles*.

  • Hotel Sherwood (rating 9.0). The cost of one night for two is 4,200 rubles*.

  • Grand Rostov Hayatt Ridensi (Assessment 9.8). The cost of one night for two is 11,500 rubles*.

What to see

Big garden

© Yuri-D3/Shutterstock

This is the main street of the city, stretching parallel to the Don by almost 4 km. It is also sometimes called the Rostov Broadway. Acquaintance with the southern capital is better to start with it – along Sadovaya there are most of the attractions, ancient mansions, city parks, hotels and good establishments. The architectural ensembles of the imperial period have been preserved, and the interspersed of Soviet and modern buildings add diversity and do not spoil the overall impression. By the way, if you arrived lightly by train, you can start a walk from the station.

Just keep in mind that the first trip around the city can take a couple of hours depending on your research interest, because sometimes it is drawn to turn into some yard, a square or a nearby lane. Along the way, you will see Gorky Park, Cathedral Lane, a colorful administration building, Square, Musical Theater and Gorky Drama Theater. This is only a small list of what for which it is worth walking on a large garden.

Cathedral Lane

© butenkov aleksei/Shutterstock

The already mentioned lane deserves separate attention. It is named so because the prospect of the street goes to the main temple of the city – the Cathedral of the Nativity of the Virgin. The red line is formed by restored pre -revolutionary buildings, due to which the place leaves the most integral architectural impression. And this is the main “pedestrian” of Rostov-on-Don. A walk along it will not take much time – the length of the street is a little less than 300 m. Here you can have a bite to eat or drink coffee.

Old Rostov

© Alexey Slyusarenko/Shutterstock

Between the Big Sadovaya and Don, the most old and colorful part of the city is located. It is better not to look for some universal route, just dive for an hour or two in these alleys and courtyards. It’s difficult to get lost here, sooner or later you will go to the embankment or back to the garden. And unexpected discoveries and various shades of impressions are guaranteed.

This part of the city, although it has an understandable grid of streets, is still pleasant chaotic-small private houses can be adjacent to multi-storey old mansions, and during walks the life of local appears in a very open and diverse.

The minimum program is to ride a tram or walk along Stanislavsky Street, an axial for the district.

Naberezhnye Don

© Aarestt/Shutterstock

“Don is going on, a measured quiet spill,” wrote Mikhail Sholokhov. Something like this could describe to the Rostov embankment. The atmosphere here has a vacation and contemplation, and for this there are many good species points along the coast.

There are two embankments here – on both sides of the river. They differ in affordable activities. On the right bank, it is pleasant at any time of the day: along the promenade there are good establishments, interesting architectural forms and monuments. There are fewer people and activities in the eastern part of this embankment, so it is suitable for a calm walk.

It is better to go to the left bank at the end of the day – at this time he comes to life. And there is even less shadow, so with southern solar activity it can be uncomfortable during the day. Only if you did not come to Rostov for a beach vacation, of course. Otherwise, you need to go right away – on this side of the river there is a central city beach. You can move to the left bank of the Don by taxi or on foot on the Voroshilovsky bridge.

Pushkinskaya street

© Taushka2014/Shutterstock

Another axis of the city, most pleasant for walking in hot weather. Pushkin Boulevard passes through the center north and parallel to the large garden. The street has become a park zone before the revolution, since then its significance has not changed. A pleasant historical development has also been preserved along it, and the most interesting monuments are a magnificent modernist building of the Don library, the Annunciation Church, made in the neovizantine style, and Petrov’s mansion, in which the Rostov Regional Museum of Fine Arts is located. Another famous place for Rostovites is a book collapse in which DEMOSHEVEVO can be purchased as a souvenir. The fair is located in a small glazed room next to the library.

Paramonov warehouses

© Shushonok/Shutterstock

This is one of the most picturesque and unusual attractions in Rostov, at the same time the most scandalous city monument in recent years. The first storage facilities of this complex were built on the Don in the middle of the 19th century. Engineers Yakunin and Schulman worked on them, but history connected the name of warehouses with the grain priest Elpidifor Paramonov – he was one of the owners.

The uniqueness of these buildings is that they were designed taking into account the springs leaking nearby – water was supplied to the buildings using the gutter system and thus created favorable temperature conditions for grain storage. The architecture of the monument is also interesting: in it, classicism is combined with romantic motives.

Nowadays, the warehouses are abandoned, they turned into ruins popular for citizens thanks to the natural pool and waterfalls – the waters of spring sources continue to flow through ancient gutters. Local authorities constantly remind of the emergency state of the complex and the need for demolition. There are plans to restore the monument from scratch, but the townspeople have been actively defending this unusual place for bathing and photo shoots for many years.

The streets of Nakhichevani

© Boris A. Panasyuk/Shutterstock

The area of ​​Nakhichevani can compete in color with the old Rostov. Back in the 20s of the last century, it was an independent city, founded during the reign of Catherine II by Armenians-migrants from Crimea. The population for a long time remained mainly Armenian, Armenian churches, libraries, theater and educational institutions were built here. Walking around Nakhichevan, it is easy to feel yourself in a city separate from Rostov, architecturally original and integral. The development here is in the majority of one and two-story, you can find many cozy and interesting yards.

It is not difficult to navigate here – the streets are perpendicular to each other, called lines and are conveniently numbered. The most interesting buildings are Nakhichevan City Theater, Balabanov’s house and Krasilnikov mansion.

Where to eat

© Yaruniv Studio/Shutterstock

Rostov-on-Don boasts a large number of cool establishments and an excellent service. After walking around the city, finding a place to taste and mood will not be difficult, and avid gourmets can experiment and try local dishes.

The crayfish of “crayfish and reptiles” is a gastropab, in which you can try truly Don food. River crayfish is prepared according to copyright recipes, there is a seasonal menu, but it is worth considering that almost all dishes are made of seafood.

Larisa fries – a pleasant place with a good interior and universal cuisine: the menu has meat dishes, fish and seafood. There are also great cocktails and a wide selection of wines.

Di Pasta Rostov is a wonderful Italian restaurant with open cuisine and a courtyard style. Located in the city center, ideal for dinner.

Simitland is a restaurant of Turkish cuisine where it is worth trying desserts and oriental sweets. Of the obvious advantages – a convenient location and an excellent atmosphere.

“Medium Place” is a restaurant in street-food format, specializing in mussel dishes. A good place for a non -standard snack while traveling around the city.

*Photo on the cover © Aarestt/Shutterstock



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